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When assembling a list of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate well-known high-end venues. Yet, nestled near the top among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying area of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has left the owners completely shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a richer, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.