Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and travelers alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it joins a international community of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and lively gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city arrives as no surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these narratives and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
